Brightwork

Front indicator stalks refresh

The front indicators were starting to rot pretty badly, replacements are not very expensive so I decided to change them for new.

The new ones are little bit shorter than the originals:

Old indicator:

New indicator stalk – I like to proportions of the placement much better between the headlights, spots and indicators:

 

 

 

Interior

Seat Repair

The Cobra Roadster 7 look nice, but the construction quality is questionable at best. After 6500 miles the driver seat broke in two. I’m very happy the nice SVA man insisted on the seat belt bar as one of the major fail points on the first pass at the SVA test:

I took the vinyl and padding completely off the base, the back rest I only removed about 1/2 as it looked it was going to be difficult to get it all back in the orignal positions:

Just welding the pipe back together would likely have resulted in a failure quite quickly. Therefore I added extra metal inside the tubes for strengthening, here before being cut to length checking for fitment, the one other otherside as a bend due to the position in the break:

I then drilled some holes through the tube for welding the metal to the tube, the extra metal is visible through them: 

Time to fire up the welder:

I welded in the extra metal to the tube through the holes, and around the tube to join it back up again:

In addition to the metal in the tubes I also added plates either side of the seat over the whole bend:

Both sides completed with some paint over the top

Finally the seat needed reassembly, the vinyl stapled to the wood backing

Getting the vinyl back in place with the least amount of wrinkles was a bit of challenge

Next sides went on, these are connect with hog rings. I bought a specific set of pliers for installing the hot rings but it was still quite challenging to get them in place.

Finally I install the seat back in the car, this one will be the passenger seat for now:

Chassis

Upper wishbone refresh and wishbone mounting rod

I changed the upper bushes today. They were rally design ones, which I’ve now replaced with Powerflex. I thought the bushes had worn as things didn’t look straight anymore. Turns out it was actually the rod which was bent and the bushes are OK. I’m going to use two of them on the diff mount (still original rubber mounts) and keep the other two as spares:

It’s pretty clear this is not so good, both sides were bent:

As I don’t have replacement materials to hand as a temporary measure I’ve straightend out the rods. Here are some sizes for reference:

Installation of new bushes:

 

 

There are powerflex product number PFF19-10 – also available in the black series which is a higher shore hardness: PFF19-102BLK

Bodywork

Reassembly, paint, lighting, electrics

The rear wings, tub and spare cover are back from http://www.specialisedpaintwork.com/ for some touch up work and removal of all the stone chips on the wings! The wings were starting to look more stone chip hole than paint on the front. To protect the wings this time I purchased some 3M VentureShield from https://www.invisiblepatterns.co.uk/ – I made a pattern using paper first then cut out the 3M stone chip protection film and applied. It took a lot of soapy water and work with the squeegee to get everything stuck down.

After fitting the stone chip protection film, I installed the new 3D printed light covers:

Wiring updated for the new inner LED lights:

Stuck the rear tub back on, this time using A316 stainless ‘A4’ nuts and bolts, these shouldn’t go rusty as easily as the previous 304 stainless ones. Got the nuts and bolts from https://www.westfieldfasteners.co.uk/

Decided to use vinyl wing piping from https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/ instead of the rubber trim that’s been on there since 2005 (that had started to go solid). The texture on the trim is very nice.

Next it was time to tackle some electrical, this tool from https://www.powerprobe.com/ (via https://www.summitracing.com/) is an invaluable tool for dealing with 12v car electrics. It will tell you if you have a ground, or a positive (and how many volts), plus you can use the switch to send a ground or 12 volts to the item your are connected to. A good way to test relays, bulbs, LED polarity etc.

Reconnected the 4 pin water proof connectors and tied up the excess cables out of the way of the tyres.

These are new two pole Lucas 403 bulb holders and a very cool set of LED lights that output both white and red light spending on which pins you connect up. They cover reverse and fog, which means I can run twin fog / twin reverse lights! The old Lucas 403 holders were starting to look a bit rusty so the new ones were good to get anyway.

Finally, an extra cross over cable is needed to bring the 12v+ fog/reverse to both sides of the car:

Reverse on!

Fog on!

Finally, due to the indicators now being LED they ran in super insane broken bulb mode. As such the flasher relay needed to be swapped out. I had gotten an LED flasher from S-V-C https://www.s-v-c.co.uk/product/led-flasher-relay-12v/ it’s pin out is reversed from the BMW flasher relay and the ground is on a wire from the top. The flasher relay comes with a polarity swapping attachment so it goes right into the same connector as the stock flasher. The ground I’ve attached to the same location as the horn and other steering wheel wiring grounds.

Finally, some assembled shots:

Chassis

Rear rust clear up

Doing some clean up work, the Sportster has been on the road for a while now so it was time to check for rust and clear anything up

Little bit inside the shock tower area, most was on the metal upright towards the back of the car.

More from inside the shock tower

This part is covered by the tub down to where the E30 A arms mount.

Under and below the tub area in the rear

The good news is that it was all surface, no structural issue. The worst part was the end of square bar under the back runs along the tank.

Cleaned everything up with a wire brush on the angle grinder, treated with loctite rust remedy and painted with chassis and rollbar paint. Also to go on later some underseal with waxoil.

Restoration

Alloys are ready for rubber

It took 1 halfords referb kit (minus paint as there was not enough), 6 1200 grit wet and dry sheets, 2 cans of primer, 3 cans of Honda Nobel Silver and 2 cans of laquer + hours and hours and hours and hours of sanding!! But the alloys are finally ready to have some tyres added. A set of Bridgestone RE720 in 205/65/R15 are ready to go on these 15x7J rims.

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Restoration

Wheels

Sanding, sanding, sanding, sanding…. after find there is not enough paint in a halford repair kit to do a proper job it turns out you can’t buy the paint separately?!?! Ok plan B filler primer, sanding, primer, Honda Noble silver, lacquer! That should yield much better results than the paint in the kit. The stuff for filling the holes was good though.

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Restoration

Wheels

We’ve decided to use the stock 4 stud alloys to start with, but with larger tyres that we’ve got from and E36. The alloys have seen better days after a good 15 years on the car! So today we’ve had the old rubber taken off the rim and started the refurb process. None of the pro restores I called would touch the plastics caps and most wanted £55 per wheel. So as these are only until we’ve worn through the tyres we decided to try the Halford wheel restoration kit. The results are pretty good consider its DIY – only finished one of the three so far, it take a long, long time with lots and lots of sanding to get anywhere!



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Also a small job in the engine bay, mounting the coil and arranging the pipes. The Car Builder Solution pipe that I had custom made instead of the 3rd radiator cap is install with the pipe over to the header tank:



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Chassis

LSD Restored and fitted

New pictures in the gallery showing the cleaned up and de-rusted limited slip differential fitted to the Sportster.

More new pictures of the front with the brake calliper and wheel test fitted: Click me