Reassembly, paint, lighting, electrics

The rear wings, tub and spare cover are back from for some touch up work and removal of all the stone chips on the wings! The wings were starting to look more stone chip hole than paint on the front. To protect the wings this time I purchased some 3M VentureShield from – I made a pattern using paper first then cut out the 3M stone chip protection film and applied. It took a lot of soapy water and work with the squeegee to get everything stuck down.

After fitting the stone chip protection film, I installed the new 3D printed light covers:

Wiring updated for the new inner LED lights:

Stuck the rear tub back on, this time using A316 stainless ‘A4’ nuts and bolts, these shouldn’t go rusty as easily as the previous 304 stainless ones. Got the nuts and bolts from

Decided to use vinyl wing piping from instead of the rubber trim that’s been on there since 2005 (that had started to go solid). The texture on the trim is very nice.

Next it was time to tackle some electrical, this tool from (via is an invaluable tool for dealing with 12v car electrics. It will tell you if you have a ground, or a positive (and how many volts), plus you can use the switch to send a ground or 12 volts to the item your are connected to. A good way to test relays, bulbs, LED polarity etc.

Reconnected the 4 pin water proof connectors and tied up the excess cables out of the way of the tyres.

These are new two pole Lucas 403 bulb holders and a very cool set of LED lights that output both white and red light spending on which pins you connect up. They cover reverse and fog, which means I can run twin fog / twin reverse lights! The old Lucas 403 holders were starting to look a bit rusty so the new ones were good to get anyway.

Finally, an extra cross over cable is needed to bring the 12v+ fog/reverse to both sides of the car:

Reverse on!

Fog on!

Finally, due to the indicators now being LED they ran in super insane broken bulb mode. As such the flasher relay needed to be swapped out. I had gotten an LED flasher from S-V-C it’s pin out is reversed from the BMW flasher relay and the ground is on a wire from the top. The flasher relay comes with a polarity swapping attachment so it goes right into the same connector as the stock flasher. The ground I’ve attached to the same location as the horn and other steering wheel wiring grounds.

Finally, some assembled shots:


Rear rust clear up

Doing some clean up work, the Sportster has been on the road for a while now so it was time to check for rust and clear anything up

Little bit inside the shock tower area, most was on the metal upright towards the back of the car.

More from inside the shock tower

This part is covered by the tub down to where the E30 A arms mount.

Under and below the tub area in the rear

The good news is that it was all surface, no structural issue. The worst part was the end of square bar under the back runs along the tank.

Cleaned everything up with a wire brush on the angle grinder, treated with loctite rust remedy and painted with chassis and rollbar paint. Also to go on later some underseal with waxoil.


Alloys are ready for rubber

It took 1 halfords referb kit (minus paint as there was not enough), 6 1200 grit wet and dry sheets, 2 cans of primer, 3 cans of Honda Nobel Silver and 2 cans of laquer + hours and hours and hours and hours of sanding!! But the alloys are finally ready to have some tyres added. A set of Bridgestone RE720 in 205/65/R15 are ready to go on these 15x7J rims.

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Sanding, sanding, sanding, sanding…. after find there is not enough paint in a halford repair kit to do a proper job it turns out you can’t buy the paint separately?!?! Ok plan B filler primer, sanding, primer, Honda Noble silver, lacquer! That should yield much better results than the paint in the kit. The stuff for filling the holes was good though.

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We’ve decided to use the stock 4 stud alloys to start with, but with larger tyres that we’ve got from and E36. The alloys have seen better days after a good 15 years on the car! So today we’ve had the old rubber taken off the rim and started the refurb process. None of the pro restores I called would touch the plastics caps and most wanted ¬£55 per wheel. So as these are only until we’ve worn through the tyres we decided to try the Halford wheel restoration kit. The results are pretty good consider its DIY – only finished one of the three so far, it take a long, long time with lots and lots of sanding to get anywhere!

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Also a small job in the engine bay, mounting the coil and arranging the pipes. The Car Builder Solution pipe that I had custom made instead of the 3rd radiator cap is install with the pipe over to the header tank:

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LSD Restored and fitted

New pictures in the gallery showing the cleaned up and de-rusted limited slip differential fitted to the Sportster.

More new pictures of the front with the brake calliper and wheel test fitted: Click me

Engine Work


3 new pictures today! One very shiny rocker cover, now polished and painted black. Inlet manifold slowly cleaning up. Not sure how much more I will do on this one. Click me