Chassis

All the Brackets

Bracket Number 1:

The return pipe from the radiator to the header tank has always been attached with a zip tie holder, but only double sided taped on. Every time the tape fails the hose is a bit flappy.

To fix this issue long terms I’ve stick a rivet into the bracket that holds the AFM

This is not going anywhere now.

Bracket Number 2:

Brake Servo vacuum hose holder

This attached to one of the bolts holding the rocker cover.

Up to now the hose sat on the rocker cover which has rubbed the paint away. Now there is plenty of clearance.

Runs as it did before, only with a gap to the top of the engine.

Bracket 3

This is more of a closing panel than a bracket. There is a small hole pedal box into the engine bay behind the servo.

Can’t see it from up here with all the body work on, but should stop fumes getting into the cabin here.

Bodywork

New front wing stays

The front wing stays rusted and broke again, did a temporary fix a few months ago, but finally it’s time to make some new ones which will hopefully be more resiliant to the elements.

Started with two 1 meter 10mm diameter solid rods

A piece of bar to turn into the bracket that will hold the rod on to the front uprights with a U clamp (51mm u clamp)

Bracket cut shown with U clamp.

Test fitted to the uprights

Used a clamp to hold the round bar to the bracket to get a it roughly lined up.

Used a caliper to evenly space the round bar away from the alloy wheels

Held in by hand for a better view of the bracket and round bar

Tack welded the round bar to the bracket

My temporary workshop setup – don’t recommend using a workmate for welding due to the risk of burning wood and fire. Use a metal welding table, which I don’t have in my garage. Grabbed the round bar quite far away from the weld so it was fine. Also used a TIG so no splatter.

I’m still a total amature at welding but these are OK

The main thing is that is holds together well. The angle grinder hides the bad.

One of the most time consuming parts of the build was creating a jig so that all four final bends ended up very similar.

It may only look like two bends, but there are hours of measuing, eyeing up and carefully deciding where the bends need to go.

The rod lines up with the holes on the carbon wings.

Now here’s one of those things that happens all too often on a project – the rods ended up 10mm too high on the first go. This is jig MK2 with the height adjusted. It did mean having to straighten out the rod and rebend it to the right position.

Here’s a test fit of the front of the rod bent into place

The jig is holding the back up.

Left to right the mount positions are little way off on the back, so some creative bending and P clip positioning evens out the rod placement.

The back bent into shape, again two bends took many hours to get to the right position.

Here are the P clips that will mount the wings to the rod

First test fit of the driver side, got some really nice new A4 grade cup washers, bolts and nuts from Westfield Fastners to finish it off.

Test fit on the passenger side. The wing was too close to the tyre so this one needed a bit more fine tuning to get it right.

 

A view from underneath with the wheel off.

There is enough gap between the tyre and the carbon, looks quite close from this angle. If there are problems it is easy to tweak the bends to create more clearance.

Before and after, the before is version 3 of the mounts which also failed eventually.

Ahh shiny parts!

Chassis

Upper wishbone refresh and wishbone mounting rod

I changed the upper bushes today. They were rally design ones, which I’ve now replaced with Powerflex. I thought the bushes had worn as things didn’t look straight anymore. Turns out it was actually the rod which was bent and the bushes are OK. I’m going to use two of them on the diff mount (still original rubber mounts) and keep the other two as spares:

It’s pretty clear this is not so good, both sides were bent:

As I don’t have replacement materials to hand as a temporary measure I’ve straightend out the rods. Here are some sizes for reference:

Installation of new bushes:

 

 

There are powerflex product number PFF19-10 – also available in the black series which is a higher shore hardness: PFF19-102BLK

Chassis

3 point reel seat belt conversion

ziptie test, safety 3rd!

Hole cut for threaded belt insert

Test fit of new piece

Use the lathe to clean up these spacers

Reel mount

Reel mout welded in

Upper mount welded in and test with spacer

Reel mounted

Otherside done too

Works quite nicely, could do with a guide for the belt on the seat

And finally plugged into place!

Chassis

Rear rust clear up

Doing some clean up work, the Sportster has been on the road for a while now so it was time to check for rust and clear anything up

Little bit inside the shock tower area, most was on the metal upright towards the back of the car.

More from inside the shock tower

This part is covered by the tub down to where the E30 A arms mount.

Under and below the tub area in the rear

The good news is that it was all surface, no structural issue. The worst part was the end of square bar under the back runs along the tank.

Cleaned everything up with a wire brush on the angle grinder, treated with loctite rust remedy and painted with chassis and rollbar paint. Also to go on later some underseal with waxoil.

Chassis

Rear brake pads

I fitted ATE brake pads to the front some time ago, they bite much better than the Jurid ones and generally feel better. 

The rear was still on Jurid and as they’ll probably never wear out I thought I’d swap them over to ATE so they match all around.

Used the opportunity to check and retorque the H&R spacers at the rear.

Need to repaint this calliper at some point, the silver never was a good choice, the front is already black.

Now labelled ATE Classic, 1988 donor!

Solid disks on from the donor E30 325i, the front is vented.

All back together again

 

Otherside done too, these Ryobi lights are really handy – even when working on the driveway.

 

 

Chassis

Varex exhaust build part 4

As I was busy Richard sorted the wiring out for the control box:

Wiring, inside the tub running along the tank with the rest of the rear loom

Wiring running along transmission tunnel, protected by a piece of fuel tubing to stop stray debris from damaging it.

Behind the fuse box, hooked in via 7.5amp fuse to an ignition feed

Located the control box in the same area just off the centre console.

Everything back in place under the dash

Just needs the rear putting back together again.

Chassis

Varex exhaust build part 3

Built the other side of the exhaust today. Welding is ‘better’ than when I started but still pretty uneven. I can’t weld too far consistently around the curve yet. Did punch a few holes in the metal in places which results in having to ‘glob’ in filler rod to build it back up again. This part was back gassed as on the others before as it was a butt joint.

The 45º and straight pieces are sleeve fit, have welded these too so less clamps are needed. It also cuts down on potential exhaust leaks.

Once the two back boxes were hung I used some boxes and various peices of wood to hold the tips in place at the right height, this is with the car on the ground. Nothing on the Sportster is straight so this was done visually.

I used a piece of angle metal to line the tops and ends of the tips up. This helped make sure the tips were aligned  straight with the ground, with each other and spaced from the back of the car.

Welding the tips on was a bit tricky, blew a few holes in the metal especially where the gaps were bigger. The left box alignment is slighly off, but it’s not visible once mounted and the tips are in the right place visually.

Both exhaust pipes mounted, the v-bands are visible in this shot. I used a tiny bit of exhaust paste on the mating surface, shouldn’t be needed with v-bands but I’d rather not have to take them off again! Also visible the zip tie exhaust hanger, nothing like attaching your exhaust to your suspension ;o)  Kinds tempted to make some straight pipes that can be put in place of the back boxes, but that’s a whole new level of noise (did try running it with just the header and you need to wear ear protection…)

The more permanent hanger, this is a part is from pypes a US manfuacturer of exahust pipes. Had that left over from building an exhaust for the Mustang (http://www.mustang67.co.uk/exhaust-upgrade/) last year. Available at https://www.summitracing.com/

View from the otherside, wiring is hanging down. These cables need plumbing in properly and the metal shields putting back on the mufflers.

Car down on the ground from a low angle, the exahust tips are closer together than before (due to the input on the backbox being offset rather than in the middle).

The tips stick out a little further than the old ones, the wall thickness and slash cut work quite nicely.

Temporarily wired up the control box, and now for the noise test:

Closed it’s quieter than the jetex micro bullet muffers + the magnaflow boxes. Open it’s a bit of a beast, louder than before so that should be fun 😉 It’s pretty much were I wanted it to be, will see what it’s like on the road once the wiring is done.

Chassis

Varex exhaust build part 2

Step 14: Cut down the output pipes, otherwise the tips would stick out too far.

Step 15: Tip test fit, could move these back further by cutting the tip input down a little which would make the hole bigger.

Step 16: Test fit on car, it’s just push fit to at this point

Opened up the cover that’s over the mechanisum which actuates the volume flap

View from the top, position seems quite good here

View of the inside of the back box, the perforated metal is the bypass output

The other side, the hole show is the bypass, the perforated tube up to the flap works much like the straight though magnaflow back boxes I took off when it is open.