Didn’t change the oil pump back when we rebuilt the engine. Last year saw low pressure when hot, 1 bar sometimes below. The old pump had quite a bit of scoring inside (see second image) on the cover and around where the gears run.
Found this one made by https://www.hewerk.de/ via ZED Performance, based on the pressure, I’m seeing a very good part.
Oil pressure was at nearly 5 bar on cold start and settled at 2 bar when it was hot on idle. A significant improvement, this was with new 10w40 oil. Need to test it on a warmer day and a longer drive, but so far looks good.
The main reason for taking the sump off was to replace the gasket as it had started leaking. While in there, I added an extra baffle to the sump area to reduce low oil pressure when cornering from slosh. The part shown in the first image wouldn’t fit past the oil pump, took a lot of metal away. It does not fit, but is quite fiddly to get on the bottom of the engine. Hoping it doesn’t start leaking agani any time soon. Used some permatex gasket sealer to keep the new gasket in place and a little silicon sealer over where the front and rear covers connect to the block.
Also replaced the o ring around the level sender, which was also leaking. This just plugs the hole in the sump as it’s not hooked up, but the cover without the sender is NLA, and the aftermarket ones are in the US and expensive to ship.
Next, one of the horns fell off due to metal fatigue on the bracket, so I made a new one out of thicker metal I had in a drawer.
After pulling the car out and checking for oil leaks, it turned out I had a massive fuel leak due to a hose clamp failure! New clamp and that was sorted.
