Chassis

Some new exhaust bits

Planning an update to the exhaust, starting early in the morning or coming back late is a bit of an issue. Dispite the sound passing SVA itโ€™s a tad disruptive. Also on long trips at 50mph you get quite a bit of resonance.

This setup using Varex X-Force back boxes gives the best of both. Open it up and it’s a straight through perforated style muffler same as the magnaflow boxes on there now and when closed the sound is reduced to stock or lower levels.

Pipes by Jetex same as the current exhaust – great quality and lots of choice.

V band clamps from eBay, will have to see how the quality lasts on the clamps.

 

Example of this type of system on a Ford 289 small block V8 (Original marked in Video had two tiny bullet mufflers and it literally made your ears ring after 10mins of driving, was also a two pipe system. New varex setup also added an x pipe)

 

Now I just need to find time to build the new one! Doing a bit of planning in Autodesk Fusion 360 – which is aviable for free if you’re a hobbist, well worth a look if you’re into playing with CAD.

This shows some jetex parts to bridge the height differene between the exhaust run and back box height:

Engine Work

Adjusting valve clearances and a new rocker gasket

Fix the jump leads – no continuity = useless jump leads. The copper was crimped and cut straight through at the factory. Trimmed and now soldered – much better.

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Inside the rocker cover still looking very clean. Adjusted all the valve gaps to 0.25mm, glad there are only 12 valves to do! Most needed a little tweak. Also gave the oil spray bar a good clean out with brake cleaner while the cover was off.

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The rocker gasket was a bit very second hand, luckily a local parts shop had one in stock.

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Engine Work

Service

Service time!

New oil – fully synthetic ester

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Managed to avoid spilling anything on the ground for a change!

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Being able to take the side off the engine bay really makes filter swaps easy!

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Also done is 6 new spark plugs (they’re pretty cheap so why not!)

Found a minor vacuum leak so the idle is much better now.

Engine Work

New 6 speed gearbox

The current clutch slave is about to pop, the mechanism for moving the clutch in and out appear to be overly stressing the hydraulic components.

As Iโ€™ll need to take the gearbox off anyway so it seemed like a good time for an upgrade. Apparently the ZF 6 speed from the E46 320d is a straight fit and as a bonus the same angle as the M20, it’s also a more solidly built and younger than the getrag that’s in there now. Only down side is that I might need a different final drive ratio to make full use of the new ratios.

One eBay special later:

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But the shift linkage at the top was smashed in transit ๐Ÿ™

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So decided to try and fit it using HTS 2000 brazing rods. I tired this with propane but it wasn’t hot enough. I instead got a can MAPP gas and a new burner from B&Q:

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Braced with a bolt and a custom cut piece of rod

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Seems pretty solid, will see how long it lasts!

Engine Work

New Optima yellow top battery fitted

Bonnet (hood!) off in Roadkill tradition, but to change the battery, not overheating ๐Ÿ˜‰

The old bosch has taken too much abuse over the years and doesn’t hold it’s charge that long even after conditioning on the CTEK charger.

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Pulled the battery out, gave this area a bit of clean. Ther rubber disks are actully old bump stops with the tabs cut off. Gives a sold yet slighly squishy place for the battery to rest against.

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New battery is an Optima Yellow Top R 3,7 D35 deep cycle. It’s a little bit smaller than the old battery. CCA is 660. The terminals clear the battery which makes it much easier to put charge clamps on them.

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Don’t forget to change your charger setting to ‘AGM’ if you don’t there’s a risk of overcharging – which will end up venting water than you can’t put back in.

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Cold start and luke warm start:

Engine Work

MTX-L Calibration

Calibrated the sensor today on the bench.

Important note – the big plastic plug that you connect to the sensor has a little plastic tab which stops the plug coming undone without pulling it. If you connect the plugs without lifting it then it can very easily go the wrong side of the plug (inside) and stop it connecting up properly. You’ll know it’s right when you hear a click as it slides into place – as below:

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First step is to hook ground and power up to the gauge with the lambda sensor disconnected. It will display E2 on the screen, wait 30 seconds and take the power off.

Plug in the O2/wide band lambda sensor and reapply power.

The sensor will get hot:

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HTR will be show on the display for a period of time while the heat builds up. My bench power supply showed between 1.4 and 1.7 amps being pulled while it was doing this.

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It briefly shows CAL is the display while calibrating the switches to 22.4 as it is in free air:

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That’s it ready to go in the car – don’t power it up without the lambda sensor attached or it will reset the calibration.

Chassis

Exhaust Hanger Mark 2

Mark 2 exhaust hangers, these use the rubber mounts from a BMW 840Ci Sport. There is 3mm steel plate than connects the exhaust boxes to the hangers.

A new bolt is welded in on the right side of the hanger, the other is the one form the fuel tank strap.

Driver side bracket, this one has some stress on it but the rubber mount is off a 12 year old car so the rubber has gone soft. A new pair will need to be ordered to finalise this.

The plates need a coat of paint and this can be marked as done.