The Cobra Roadster 7 look nice, but the construction quality is questionable at best. After 6500 miles the driver seat broke in two. I’m very happy the nice SVA man insisted on the seat belt bar as one of the major fail points on the first pass at the SVA test:
I took the vinyl and padding completely off the base, the back rest I only removed about 1/2 as it looked it was going to be difficult to get it all back in the orignal positions:
Just welding the pipe back together would likely have resulted in a failure quite quickly. Therefore I added extra metal inside the tubes for strengthening, here before being cut to length checking for fitment, the one other otherside as a bend due to the position in the break:
I then drilled some holes through the tube for welding the metal to the tube, the extra metal is visible through them:
Time to fire up the welder:
I welded in the extra metal to the tube through the holes, and around the tube to join it back up again:
In addition to the metal in the tubes I also added plates either side of the seat over the whole bend:
Both sides completed with some paint over the top
Finally the seat needed reassembly, the vinyl stapled to the wood backing
Getting the vinyl back in place with the least amount of wrinkles was a bit of challenge
Next sides went on, these are connect with hog rings. I bought a specific set of pliers for installing the hot rings but it was still quite challenging to get them in place.
Finally I install the seat back in the car, this one will be the passenger seat for now:
ziptie test, safety 3rd!
Hole cut for threaded belt insert
Test fit of new piece
Use the lathe to clean up these spacers
Reel mout welded in
Upper mount welded in and test with spacer
Otherside done too
Works quite nicely, could do with a guide for the belt on the seat
And finally plugged into place!
As I was busy Richard sorted the wiring out for the control box:
Wiring, inside the tub running along the tank with the rest of the rear loom
Wiring running along transmission tunnel, protected by a piece of fuel tubing to stop stray debris from damaging it.
Behind the fuse box, hooked in via 7.5amp fuse to an ignition feed
Located the control box in the same area just off the centre console.
Everything back in place under the dash
Just needs the rear putting back together again.
Calibrated the sensor today on the bench.
Important note – the big plastic plug that you connect to the sensor has a little plastic tab which stops the plug coming undone without pulling it. If you connect the plugs without lifting it then it can very easily go the wrong side of the plug (inside) and stop it connecting up properly. You’ll know it’s right when you hear a click as it slides into place – as below:
First step is to hook ground and power up to the gauge with the lambda sensor disconnected. It will display E2 on the screen, wait 30 seconds and take the power off.
Plug in the O2/wide band lambda sensor and reapply power.
The sensor will get hot:
HTR will be show on the display for a period of time while the heat builds up. My bench power supply showed between 1.4 and 1.7 amps being pulled while it was doing this.
It briefly shows CAL is the display while calibrating the switches to 22.4 as it is in free air:
That’s it ready to go in the car – don’t power it up without the lambda sensor attached or it will reset the calibration.
Arrived today an Innovate MTX-L lambda sensor plus gauge. Also has outputs for after market ECU..
This will allow me to monitor and log via a laptop the air fuel ratios. It’s running rich on idle but need to see how it’s doing elsewhere!
Now with silver/white bezel:
Demister vent tubing made out of some drain pipe
Scuttle vents, these are from a mini with some stainless mesh added.
Plastic tubed sprayed black and glued to scuttle. Some black rubber acts as a connector to the pipe that came with the heater
a view of the rubber connection on the heater vents
Centre console covered with heater vent built in to direct the warm air at your feet.
Scuttle on with heater pipes attached
Vent pipes attached to scuttle
Bracket to attach screen wash bottle
Screenwash bottle holder
Screen wash tube going through the firewall
Screen wash bottle and motor installed.
12V accessory socket for the GPS
Bodywork coming together
Sorting out the wiring under the scuttle
Sorting out the wiring under the scuttle
Wiper motor and connections.
I was hoping that the car would get finished today, but as always there were more and more little things to do!
The centre console now has bracketing to hold it securely in place, the tub is secured and positioned right for the doors. The doors with re-enforcement brackets are on but not adjusted yet. The demister vent connections are nearly done. I tried setting up the amp with the scope but either them is chucking out some funny signals or the scope is on the blink. Headunit has clean output to setting 60 of 62. Higher than 60 and you get a tiny bit of distortion creep in.
Once the demister vents are sort the scuttle can go on and the doors adjusted. After that it’s just bonnet side panels and head lights.
Passenger side speaker
Driver side done
This side still needs some more brackets so it’s all solid.
Mk 2 fuse holder bracket
This bracket also holds the wiper motor. The clamp has been moved up a bit to reduce flexing.
The centre console is taking shape with a small recess to keep your glasses.
Managed to find some room to fit a speaker above the steering column.
There’s some sides and top to try and keep the front and back separated as much as possible.
Once the dash is in you can’t see it any more.
Nose cone and centre console
Nose cone fitted.
hmm pretty colours
Starting to piece together the centre console
Two supports cut and shaped to get the angle of the radio correct with enoughclearance for the rear of the radio.
Radio supports glued.
Just need to make up some sides to hold the midbass speakers under the dash.