Bodywork

3D Printed light brackets Version 2 test

Version 2 on the left, much smaller than the inital version:

Some clearance to fit two next to each other on the Sporster

The part is still more than strong enough for to keep the light in

Test fitting on the wing

LED centre light test fit (yep, rusty screws need changing)

View from the outside

Bodywork

Hella Mix and Match 3D Print Light Brackets

When we first build the Sportster 3D printing wasn’t a thing for home users. This has changed in the last 13 years, so it seem like a good time to make some improvments.

Version one of the rear light brackets where aluminim, work fine don’t look so good:

CAD Designs so far, allows for 3mm body thinkness when mounted. It’ll need a gasket to keep the damp out, also the fibre glass is not a consisten thinkness:

 

Some rendered versions with clear models of the outter ring and inner light:

Now we need to print the first protoype and see how it fits:

 

Brightwork

3rd brake light

A very temporary solution to make it more obvious I’m using the brakes. Not pretty but does the job until I find a better solution.

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Brightwork

Number plate LED upgrade

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It was time for an upgrade after spending a year on and off cleaning contacts and still having the number plate lights blink sometime. Using the original housings the standard bulbs have been switched for LED blocks from CBS. These are the same as the type used for the interior lighting. Not tried them in the dark yet as it’s a really nice day today!

Brightwork

Wiper Installation

After spending a lot of time eyeing up the location for the wipers I came to the conclusion that 90 degrees would work best for us. After looking inside the gearbox I found that we have a 110 degree drive gear (which matches the sweep measurement I took a while ago). So I ordered a 90 degree drive gear.

Wiper wheel boxes installed. I had to thin down the fibreglass on one of them as it was too thick to mount the wheel box.

The boxes are fairly in-line.

Motor mounted on a metal plate. I plan to move the hoop for the motor a little hight so the motor is held a little better. Its seem to hold fine as it is however I would feel better with it moved.

Tubes cut to length and flared, good that we had all of the tools from installing the brake pipes as they came in perfectly for this job.

All the parts ready for install. We bought some chrome tops for the wheel boxes as Marlin supplied rubber ones. I am using the rubber ones for fitting to avoid damaging the the chrome ones.

Wipers installed, still need to cut the arms to the correct length.

Tubes Installed.


Wipers in motion.

Washer jets installed.


Bodywork

Windscreen part 1

To fit the windscreen you’ll need some masking tape a pencil, rule and maybe a tape measure!

  • Put some tape down and mark a centre line on the scuttle – I used the bonnet hinge and my guide which was previous painstakingly placed in the middle!
  • Place the ali cover that goes under the screen on the scuttle measuring 130mm back from the scuttle edge (back edge inside car) on both sides. Also mark 60mm back.
  • Mark 7mm out from the metal edge – this creates a slot shop that the windscreen sides can drop into. Got to be careful that the holes are parallel with the edges of the screen!
  • Drill a series of holes inside the marked area, cut and file them out. Now you can drop the screen to test fit! That’s about as far as we got this weekend!

<p>Windscreen loosly slotted through the scuttle</p>

Windscreen loosely slotted through the scuttle

<p>Stainless plates do a good job of covering holes chopped into the scuttle.</p>

Stainless plates do a good job of covering holes chopped into the scuttle.

<p>With the screen pulled back the metal of the screen frame pretty much touches the scuttle</p>

With the screen pulled back the metal of the screen frame pretty much touches the scuttle

<p>Screen should provide a decent amount of wind protection. Side screen may still need to be fitted!</p>

Screen should provide a decent amount of wind protection. Side screen may still need to be fitted!

<p>The driver side - the bottom hole just bolts in with a spacer, not sure yet how the top bolts in yet as the brackets have a huge bend in them that don't seem to line up with anthig.</p>

The driver side – the bottom hole just bolts in with a spacer, not sure yet how the top bolts in yet as the brackets have a huge bend in them that don’t seem to line up with anything.

<p>The ali panel under the screen is not the right shape but once the rubber strip is added it almost fills the gaps - some filling work will be need to make it fit better.</p>

The ali panel under the screen is not the right shape but once the rubber strip is added it almost fills the gaps – some filling work will be need to make it fit better.

All we need now are some wishbones!