Brightwork

3rd brake light

A very temporary solution to make it more obvious I’m using the brakes. Not pretty but does the job until I find a better solution.

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Brightwork

Number plate LED upgrade

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It was time for an upgrade after spending a year on and off cleaning contacts and still having the number plate lights blink sometime. Using the original housings the standard bulbs have been switched for LED blocks from CBS. These are the same as the type used for the interior lighting. Not tried them in the dark yet as it’s a really nice day today!

Brightwork

Wiper Installation

After spending a lot of time eyeing up the location for the wipers I came to the conclusion that 90 degrees would work best for us. After looking inside the gearbox I found that we have a 110 degree drive gear (which matches the sweep measurement I took a while ago). So I ordered a 90 degree drive gear.

Wiper wheel boxes installed. I had to thin down the fibreglass on one of them as it was too thick to mount the wheel box.

The boxes are fairly in-line.

Motor mounted on a metal plate. I plan to move the hoop for the motor a little hight so the motor is held a little better. Its seem to hold fine as it is however I would feel better with it moved.

Tubes cut to length and flared, good that we had all of the tools from installing the brake pipes as they came in perfectly for this job.

All the parts ready for install. We bought some chrome tops for the wheel boxes as Marlin supplied rubber ones. I am using the rubber ones for fitting to avoid damaging the the chrome ones.

Wipers installed, still need to cut the arms to the correct length.

Tubes Installed.


Wipers in motion.

Washer jets installed.


Bodywork

Windscreen part 1

To fit the windscreen you’ll need some masking tape a pencil, rule and maybe a tape measure!

  • Put some tape down and mark a centre line on the scuttle – I used the bonnet hinge and my guide which was previous painstakingly placed in the middle!
  • Place the ali cover that goes under the screen on the scuttle measuring 130mm back from the scuttle edge (back edge inside car) on both sides. Also mark 60mm back.
  • Mark 7mm out from the metal edge – this creates a slot shop that the windscreen sides can drop into. Got to be careful that the holes are parallel with the edges of the screen!
  • Drill a series of holes inside the marked area, cut and file them out. Now you can drop the screen to test fit! That’s about as far as we got this weekend!

<p>Windscreen loosly slotted through the scuttle</p>

Windscreen loosely slotted through the scuttle

<p>Stainless plates do a good job of covering holes chopped into the scuttle.</p>

Stainless plates do a good job of covering holes chopped into the scuttle.

<p>With the screen pulled back the metal of the screen frame pretty much touches the scuttle</p>

With the screen pulled back the metal of the screen frame pretty much touches the scuttle

<p>Screen should provide a decent amount of wind protection. Side screen may still need to be fitted!</p>

Screen should provide a decent amount of wind protection. Side screen may still need to be fitted!

<p>The driver side - the bottom hole just bolts in with a spacer, not sure yet how the top bolts in yet as the brackets have a huge bend in them that don't seem to line up with anthig.</p>

The driver side – the bottom hole just bolts in with a spacer, not sure yet how the top bolts in yet as the brackets have a huge bend in them that don’t seem to line up with anything.

<p>The ali panel under the screen is not the right shape but once the rubber strip is added it almost fills the gaps - some filling work will be need to make it fit better.</p>

The ali panel under the screen is not the right shape but once the rubber strip is added it almost fills the gaps – some filling work will be need to make it fit better.

All we need now are some wishbones!

Brightwork

The small things

Some more small things today:

  • Indicators bolted down, they need moving back  bit to avoid hitting the front wings on full lock
  • Interior some more zip ties on the wiring
  • Oil topped up
  • Test the brakes on the drive way – seems easy enough to lock the wheels at low speed
  • Steering wheel sponge cover tweaked a bit
  • All lights checked
  • Heater cover added and 90 rubber bends to point the air flow at our feet
  • Cleaned the garage up, it was starting to look a bit messy!
Brightwork

Indicators, horns, wiring and interior lighting

More small jobs sorted today while waiting for an SVA date:

Indicators installed so that they comply with SVA regs:

Installed new horns as the ones from the donor died:

Finally clean up of the engine wiring loom:

Interior lighting, these run on a dely circuit so when you open the door they stay on for a period of time. They also turn on when you unlock the car with the alarm for a longer period or until the engine is started.:


Bodywork

Let there be light!

After creating a template for bracket for holding the rear lights 4 more were made as the final products:


Each pod needed to be individually tuned to fit the shape of the fibreglass to ensure that the LED ring was held in tightly and that the inner lighter protrude the correct amount.

Brackets and lights installed on a wing and the wiring sorted.

And installed on the car:

And we have light! The final layout is: rings for brakes, red for rear light, and clear for indicators.

Also added this snazzy button holder under the dash:

Brightwork

lights & interior

All the lights are now working! Blew the 7.5amp fuses though. The current on the high beams + spots peaks at 11amps (possible spikes higher) so 15amp fuses are going in for those. We’ll see how it behaves with those.

A smallish job we’ve been putting off for a long time. The 6 branch manifold gets quite close to the brake master cylinder and pipes so we’ve put in a shield to try and reduce the amount of heat around it. Keep brake fluid cooler can only be a good thing!


Big thanks to Mike at Car Audio Direct.com for sending this pack of Damplifer out so quickly so we could do this over the weekend! Sound deadening such as Damplifier or Dynamat is used in the car audio industry to reduce rattly panels. On the plus side this stuff will dampen vibrations through the floor as well as heat shield it.

3 sheets plus half a sheet of Dynamat we had left over from a bulk pack covers both floors, the lower half of the firewall and part of the side of the transmission tunnel. Which should be enough to protect our feet from heat. 

Also added extra bolts to the seat runner brackets that go through the brackets, floor and chassis.

More dashboard work – installed the switches around the steering wheel – yes those holes on the right are in the wrong place! – oops 🙂 Luckily the whole dash will be covered so its not and issue.

Bottom to top: Main light switch (from the E30), fog light, interior light, speedo LCD switch button.

The main light switch is the one from the donor E30. You can spin the button to change the brightness of the dash lighting.

Installation is made easy by using part of the E30 dashboard screwed to the back of the Sportster dash.

Glove box attached to the dash, had to chop a load off the scuttle so it would fit in nicely.

Finally the beginning of an initial template for the boot floor.

Brightwork

Headlights

Front bumper installation – just like the back the front does not fit so we made some spacers.


Spacer installed, with the spacer in the bumpers fit very snugly!


Headlights, spotlights and indicators mounted. The driver side is wired up.


Done a load of small things as well like zip tying cables in the engine bay, extra paint in the battery box to protect it, hole cut for brake fluid level sensor, lots of polishing on the headlights, spot lights and indicators.