Chassis

Some new exhaust bits

Planning an update to the exhaust, starting early in the morning or coming back late is a bit of an issue. Dispite the sound passing SVA itโ€™s a tad disruptive. Also on long trips at 50mph you get quite a bit of resonance.

This setup using Varex X-Force back boxes gives the best of both. Open it up and it’s a straight through perforated style muffler same as the magnaflow boxes on there now and when closed the sound is reduced to stock or lower levels.

Pipes by Jetex same as the current exhaust – great quality and lots of choice.

V band clamps from eBay, will have to see how the quality lasts on the clamps.

 

Example of this type of system on a Ford 289 small block V8 (Original marked in Video had two tiny bullet mufflers and it literally made your ears ring after 10mins of driving, was also a two pipe system. New varex setup also added an x pipe)

 

Now I just need to find time to build the new one! Doing a bit of planning in Autodesk Fusion 360 – which is aviable for free if you’re a hobbist, well worth a look if you’re into playing with CAD.

This shows some jetex parts to bridge the height differene between the exhaust run and back box height:

Engine Work

Parts!

New parts! Conrod bolts, main bearing shells, big end shells, water pump, cam belt and piston rings.

Interior

meh

Missed the
opening times of metal supermarket and hampshire hose due to silly
traffic on the M3.

Anyway spent a little time finishing off bolting the tub up to the suspension towers – stop things flapping about.

Also set-up the up the front camber. No idea what to use so I’ve got
1.25 negative on both sides. The main thing is that they are now the
same. Also made everything SVA friendly with those black tube things.

Engine Work

Little things

Got these a while ago, conrods from an M20B20 – 130mm center to center. 5mm shorter than the standard M20B25 and will mate well with the M52 crank!

Spent too much time on eBay and ended up with a model of an Alfa Romeo 2300 Monza 1932 which very clear shows some of the styling inspiration of the Marlin line up!

Bodywork

Wires, bodywork and parts

Wiring

We’ve made excellent progress with the wiring, pretty much everything is in place now ready to go!

Bodywork

Rear lights are in and the tank filler hole is drilled. The wings are not the same, the left one is longer than the right one. Makes for an interesting task lining up the lights. Rear view is nearly done, the real lights still need to go in (rather than the reflectors) the fog lights need to go on. As do the number plate lights!

Also started removing the flash lines from the tub, what a PITA job!

Finally a bit of future tuning news:

This is a crank from a BMW M52B28 engine, with a spacer at the front end this will drop right into the M20 block. Combined with 130mm conrods from a M20B20 and the pistons from the M20B25 this will result in a 2.8 ltr stroker engine. The parts been put in the box ready for rebuilding the engine at some point in the future.

Parts

Pump Issues

Doh! We’ve been advised that the Facet pump is not up to the job in a fuel injection system. So we ordered a Sytec PF603 from www.raceparts-direct.com instad with is spec’d for the job.

If we add a swirl pot at a later date we could still use the Facel for the low pressure pump!

This weekend brings the rather interesting task of measuring all the pipes on the engine to order up hose clips!

Chassis

Power!

A quick trip to B&Q and one hardcore MAPP blow torch later the two oil pipes are bent out of the way of the steering column with ease!

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CBS Throttle cable through the bulk head. The thread on this had to be chopped back so the pedal could move all the way up.

We’ve bolted on throttle cable at the other end – the cable is current 5m long which is a bit much! The throttle is still a bit stiff with the long cable – We’re hoping that it will loose a bit once its shortend.

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Parts from the donor heater system – The two pipes use opposite connector types therefore when connected we can use this as an inline electric controlled valve to regulate the amount of hot water that flows through the system from a control on the dash – much nicer than a manual valve hidden under the dash!

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