Engine Work

A few new bits

Swapped the alternator out today as the old one was showing signs of failing. New one charges properly at 14v.

Replaced the blue temp sensor in the hopes of fixing occasional warm start issues, but that will need more testing. It was fine after filling it up.

Replaced the Silkolene Silk Tran Syn 5 in the gear box with Fuchs ATF 3000 which has smoothed out the gear changes a lot (no more crunching, even from cold) gear box is still a bit stiff though.

Final touch to the wheel restoration!

Final touch to the wheel restoration!

some silver BBS badges, from eBay

some silver BBS badges, from eBay

Sadly not the best quality, they needed epoxying on as the sticky on the back was rubbish.

Sadly not the best quality, they needed epoxying on as the sticky on the back was rubbish.
 

Engine Work

Subtle

Due to some over heating issues we decided to upgrade the radiator, here’s some photo’s comparing the new rad to a 325i face lift rad which is a tad bigger than the one in there now.

Radiator upgrade - stock face lift 325i rad compared to the new ali one.

Radiator upgrade – stock face lift 325i rad compared to the new ali one.

It is substantially thicker than the stock rad.

It is substantially thicker than the stock rad.

The M10 rad in the car now it slightly smaller than the 325i rad.

The M10 rad in the car now it slightly smaller than the 325i rad.

Northern - made in the USA and bought off eBay in the UK!

Northern – made in the USA and bought off eBay in the UK from these guys http://stores.ebay.co.uk/USA-Speed-and-Restoration!

Comes with all the bits you need to customise the radiator anyway you need it.

Comes with all the bits you need to customise the radiator anyway you need it.

Chassis

Fine tuning on the handling

Toe fine tuning after changing the wishbones before the trip to Stonelight:

Starting point, 1.25 degrees negative camber, castor set 3 washers on the front and 4 on the back.

Symptoms – car does not auto centre going forwards, but it does backwards. Problem is too much toe in.

1) Mark on the track rod a line so you know where the top is.
2) Unbolt and turn the track rod by 1 turn so it move out from the track rod end – this moves the wheels outwards at the front.
3) Take it for a quick drive forwards and back and see how it feels. Ours felt a bit more neutral going back ward but still no auto centre.
4) Repeat if needed, we did with a 1/2 turn. Now backwards wasn’t auto centring much at all and forwards was doing it a bit, but not quite enough.
5) Repeat if need, we did an extra 1/4 turn. Now the auto centring forwards was very good. Still slightly loose around the middle but 1/4 turn and it runs nicely back into line.

This has a made a huge difference to the handling feel. It feels nimbler into the bends and is easier to steer.

I’ve also moved my seat a notch forwards which is less relaxed but gives me better control.

FAQ Item added to cover this, click here.

Engine Work

Temp Sensor

The reason the temp sensor was not working is that the bigger bit at the end that does the sensing had fallen off! Doh.

New sensor from CBS looks a lot better. The switch has an override setting so if the sensor goes you can wind it all the way up and the fan comes on even when the engine is cold.

This is the new sensor: http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/adjustabl…stat-763-p.asp

Been for a 15 mile round trip an all is well again.

The Rad is a bit border line -situation is the temp comes up and keep going up until the fan kicks in when your stopped. The fan stops the temp going further but the rad is not big enough for the temp to come back down again to normal when sat in traffic.

So it will be OK for now, We’ll see what it does when the outside temp goes up.

Maintenance

Woohoo, runs again

Engine runs again  Let the oil pressure come up on the starter again without plugs. It was tad rough to start with as it tends to be.

Turns out the fan temp sensor switch is broken which is why the fan wouldn’t run when it was hot.

So the problems were dodgy earth, broken fan switch and the starter stayed engaged. 

Solutions: New earth strap, new fan switch on order, greased starter mechanism, new oil, new filter.

I may need a new starter, the alternator could do with being replaced as well.

All in all lucky escape.

Once I have new bits we’ll be able to take it for a run make sure it OK over a longer period.

Maintenance

Diagnosis Part 3

Taken the water pump out, it looks fine. No damage or wear marks.

Also taken several main bearing caps off and check the shells. They all look OK slowly starting to wear off the protective layer – no obvious damage.

Next step is reassembly, new earth strap, new oil and a new filter. Fingers crossed it will run OK again.

Maintenance

Diagnosis Part 2

On inspecting the sump it turns out the ring terminal for the earth strap has broken, it was in place so that you could not see it had broken. There was a bit of contact but not much. This is the cause of the high oil pressure. Not much earth gauge OK when you put it on ignition 2, run the starter and it screws that up so the pressure goes up. Disconnect it and no earth = gauge on highest setting.

The also means the starter does not run properly as it doesn’t get enough power.

Took the sump off. No obvious marks in any of the bores from the bottom. Push in the oil return and the oil runs out fine, oil pump seems to be OK.

Added a temp earth strap and now the starter runs fine turning the engine over without any problems (no plugs) – no odd sounds from it either.

Hypothesis is airlock (driving up hill), overheat and then unable to run anything due to the earth strap.  

Seizing probably due to small tolerances and overheat. Need to pull a cap off check a shell for damage.

Doesn’t look as bad now as it did initially. I’m going to do have more of a look around, get a genuine water pump from BMW as the one I have makes a noise and a new sump gasket, new oil and filter and see how it goes.

Maintenance

Diagnosis Part 1

Testing Round 1 (not much time):

I can hand crank it fairly easily now, it does seem to get a little notchy in places.

Also the starter can turn the engine over however I have to hand crank it a few time first.

I did noticed the oil pressure went really high after a few turns of the starter

Testing Round 2 (a bit more time):

Thermostat is fine, water pump seems to be pumping OK, but not pull it out yet (rad is in the way). Oil in the bottom was quite dark but not clumpy. Oil in the top was still quite light.

When you crank the engine on the starter a few seconds the oil pressure goes way way up – I stopped at 6 bar.

So me thinks there’s a blockage somewhere. Not pulled the sump off yet, but that’s the next step.