Doing some clean up work, the Sportster has been on the road for a while now so it was time to check for rust and clear anything up
Little bit inside the shock tower area, most was on the metal upright towards the back of the car.
More from inside the shock tower
This part is covered by the tub down to where the E30 A arms mount.
Under and below the tub area in the rear
The good news is that it was all surface, no structural issue. The worst part was the end of square bar under the back runs along the tank.
Cleaned everything up with a wire brush on the angle grinder, treated with loctite rust remedy and painted with chassis and rollbar paint. Also to go on later some underseal with waxoil.
Part evolution from initial concept to final co-polyester print, shown at the front the traditional bulb clear lens, LED amber indicator and LED ring light.
The final part:
Test fit with traditional bulb holder style clear lens indicator:
New LED centres, these don’t have the big tail and rubber seal out the back so it’s vulnerable to stone impacts and dirt inside the rear arches.
To solve the first/damage issue I’ve modelled up a dust cap, on the right version 1 printed in one part. The rough surface comes from removing supports. Version 2 on the left, printed in two parts, up the other way. That leaves a clean finish on the ourside from the print bed and clean surface without any overhang for the inside.
Version 2 split print in more detail, these parts are glued together using CA / Superglue
Wire cap in place
The end is shaped so that shrink tube can easily be place over the cables to protect them
Version 2 on the left, much smaller than the inital version:
Some clearance to fit two next to each other on the Sporster
The part is still more than strong enough for to keep the light in
Test fitting on the wing
LED centre light test fit (yep, rusty screws need changing)
View from the outside
Version 2 model, more compact, less print time and should have a good 1-2mm gap to place both lights next to each other.
Test print Version 1 in PLA, some Dremel work needed due to minor measurements being out, mostly it’s Ok!
Test print in PLA, will be able to test fit in a day or two. The final version will be printed in a copolyester for more heat resilience.
When we first build the Sportster 3D printing wasn’t a thing for home users. This has changed in the last 13 years, so it seem like a good time to make some improvments.
Version one of the rear light brackets where aluminim, work fine don’t look so good:
CAD Designs so far, allows for 3mm body thinkness when mounted. It’ll need a gasket to keep the damp out, also the fibre glass is not a consisten thinkness:
Some rendered versions with clear models of the outter ring and inner light:
Now we need to print the first protoype and see how it fits:
I fitted ATE brake pads to the front some time ago, they bite much better than the Jurid ones and generally feel better.
The rear was still on Jurid and as they’ll probably never wear out I thought I’d swap them over to ATE so they match all around.
Used the opportunity to check and retorque the H&R spacers at the rear.
Need to repaint this calliper at some point, the silver never was a good choice, the front is already black.
Now labelled ATE Classic, 1988 donor!
Solid disks on from the donor E30 325i, the front is vented.
All back together again
Otherside done too, these Ryobi lights are really handy – even when working on the driveway.
Video (obligatory no exhaust clip right at the end when everthing was off):
As I was busy Richard sorted the wiring out for the control box:
Wiring, inside the tub running along the tank with the rest of the rear loom
Wiring running along transmission tunnel, protected by a piece of fuel tubing to stop stray debris from damaging it.
Behind the fuse box, hooked in via 7.5amp fuse to an ignition feed
Located the control box in the same area just off the centre console.
Everything back in place under the dash
Just needs the rear putting back together again.