Puller-me-jig in place. The metal plate is bolted to the bit that needs to come off. In the middle a long bolt (out of an M52 block!) and a nut. Theory is you do up the bolt in the middle and it pops off.

The metal is already bent from the first time it wont done up (it moved about 1/2 mm)

Carefully the middle bolt was done up until it started pulling off.

and here it is finally!

There were tiny amount of rust underneath which is what was causing it to stick.

Needs a good clean out and polish before test fitting on the M52 crank.

M52B28 crank shaft sitting in the M20 block - this end will need some kind of spacer for the oil seal.

Crank sits in the block like it was meant to be there - only other thing that need to be tested is the M20B20 130mm conrod with the M20B25 pistons in place to check clearances.

One more picture for good measure!

One question, how the h*** to do you the cam belt pulley off the crank? It seems to be wedge solid. The cam chain pulley came right off the M52 crank so I assume its the same with the M20 except I've got 20 years of gunk keeping it on!

The head is off to the local machine shop for crack testing, we'll know if everything is good on Tuesday. If it is then it'll get a bit of clean up.

Clean valves! This took a lot of time! The exhaust vales were cakes. Used a technique from Jason (GreatOldOne) placed the valve in drill and used increasingly finer sand paper to take the layers off and then some metal polish to finish it. The intake valves just need a run over with 1200 grit & some degreaser, then metal polish.

This was a 4 hour process with two people and two drills so about 8 work hours to clean them up! Some of them still have a bit of carbon build up but its very small and they still need to be run throug the ultrasonic cleaner and degreaser!

The tops of the valves where cleaned like the bottom half, the centres took a bit more work with sand paper and the edge of a knif blade. The only area left alone was valve seating area, that will be ground in when the head comes back from the machine shop.

Rest of the engine is out of the Sportster, looking a bit empty now.

Engine and gearbox out!

The clutch coming off

Sump off!

6 pistons removed from the block and numbered. They need a good clean and the conrods swapping for the 130mm M20B20 ones. I'm going to check the M52B28 conrods and the M50B25 ones I've got knocking about as well see if there's anything more suitable.

Bores in the block look great!

Flywheel off, had to lock the crankshaft in place with a metal bar between piston 3 and 4 then the bolts came out really easy!

Crank bolt came out really easy - surprisingly!

Rather than buying a new valve spring compressor we decided to make an extension for the curent one. 

After lathing the tube to the correct size with a suitable amount taken out the inside to fit over the clamp it needed holes in the side so that you can still remove the collets after compressing the springs:

The completed adapter attached:

And now in use on the head to remove the valves. Looking at this it would seem that it would have been possible to use it without the extension but it would seems to be easier this way up!

The intake valves and valve seats look great, but the exhaust seats and valves need re-grinding. They are just starting to pit. All in all everything seems to be in very good condition.

All the valves, springs and collets arranged in order waiting to be cleaned up.

 The head could do with a dip, it seems to be nice and straight but I think I'll find a machine shop to double check everything for me!

Due to the car being off the road because of the broken wish bone we decided it would be a good idea to tackle the engine rebuild. This was more planned for next winter but never mind!

The current engine had 111k on it, and with the zone chip started running really well so we were not expecting any major issues. Part of the rebuild will involve dropping an M52B28 crank shaft and M20B20 conrods into the block. This will make it a square engine with an increase in capacity to 2.8ltrs. Further the head will recieve a new set of performance valve springs and a dbilas 282°/272° camshaft. All gaskets and seals are also being replaced.

Head off!

Inspection of the head reveals its in prett y good condition!

Nice tip for getting the bolt out the end of the cam shaft. Put the old timing belt around it, then loop the open end of the belt round the work mate. This locks it in place and allows the easy removal of he botl!

Rocker number out, shaft on its way out

Camshaft and everything else removed from head minus the valves

First valve out, could take any more out as the valve spring clamp we bought was not big enough, needs to go back for the more expensive one!

More to follow!

Winter Drive Extended Cut:

A few pictures from the weekend between filming:

Unfortunately after this we had a wish bone fail which meant joining the RAC and getting the car home on a flat bed, Marlin will send me all new replacement bits but as they are between workshop moves I won't get any parts until next year now. Never mind, gives us time to install the windscreen and maybe do some engine work! :)

Went for a proper first drive on today. We're really happy and are slowly getting to know the cars handling a bit. Doesn't half go when you put your foot down! Grinning from ear to ear.
 
Even the cold weather is not putting us off (although I think we may need to install the windscreen soon). 

We've done 50 miles today before it got dark, only tiny bit of rain but I'm now grinning like this 

The tax disc and number plate came today! Just need to have some plates made up and its ready for the road