Important note – the big plastic plug that you connect to the sensor has a little plastic tab which stops the plug coming undone without pulling it. If you connect the plugs without lifting it then it can very easily go the wrong side of the plug (inside) and stop it connecting up properly. You’ll know it’s right when you hear a click as it slides into place – as below:

First step is to hook ground and power up to the gauge with the lambda sensor disconnected. It will display E2 on the screen, wait 30 seconds and take the power off.

Plug in the O2/wide band lambda sensor and reapply power.

The sensor will get hot:

HTR will be show on the display for a period of time while the heat builds up. My bench power supply showed between 1.4 and 1.7 amps being pulled while it was doing this.

It briefly shows CAL is the display while calibrating the switches to 22.4 as it is in free air:

That’s it ready to go in the car – don’t power it up without the lambda sensor attached or it will reset the calibration.

This will allow me to monitor and log via a laptop the air fuel ratios. It’s running rich on idle but need to see how it’s doing elsewhere!

Edit:

Now with silver/white bezel:

Paint on the back of the adapter to avoid any rust

A tube of  heat shielding goes over the brakes hoses, this adds extra heat protection as they run past the servo underneath it.

The most useful tool ever in a situation where you can’t see – a camera on the end of a long bendable probe!

Snake cam, allowed me to easily locate bolts and screws while using the laptop screen to see what was going on.

With the aid of this tool I bolted up the rose joint to the brake pedal.

Old heat shield adapted and fitted under the master cylinder, the extra tube covers from the heat shield back.

The heat shield keep everything nice a cool as it’s directly above the exhaust manifold. The servo gets close to the side, but there’s more than enough room!

Lots of clearance for the bonnet to close.

Here is is all back together again! Took it for a quick test drive, it was cold dark and the first time I’ve needed to use the fog light on the car!

Initial impressions – pedal travel is longer, but way more progressive. The feel is much more like my tintop – not as much bite but much easier to use.

Took it out again today and tried a few emergency stops, it stop nice and straight and you can pump the pedal relativity easily to stop the wheels from locking. All in all a very good upgrade!

Flexi pipes for the front brakes fitted to the chassis, the old brake pipes are still as there were.

Master cylinder adapter plate painted a nice shade of hammered blue.

Copper shortened and re-flared to fit flexi pipe locations and the pressure reducer for the rear brakes relocated to just above the steering column.

Pressure reducer as seen from the top.

Bought a rose joint to go on the servo, minor issue bought the wrong thread direction – oops! New one on order LOL. Also 10mm bolts don’t go through 3/8″ holes by about 0.4mm so ordered some 3/8″ nuts and bolts to use.

A very interesting article on BMW donor engines!