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Marlin Owners Club



Q: My M20 won't idle properly (solved!)
(Updated: 02/09/2009)


Q: Wiper Installation
(Updated: 23/02/2009)


Q: Individual Throttle Bodies for M20
(Updated: 02/01/2009)


Q: M20B28 Build in Full
(Updated: 01/01/2009)


Q: Pre 2008 Wishbone recall and Mud Guard stays
(Updated: 15/05/2008)


Q: Geometry toe fine tuning
(Updated: 04/05/2008)


Q: Fuel Tank Breather issues - highly pressurised tank
(Updated: 02/04/2008)


Q: Front suspension parts
(Updated: 20/02/2008)


Q: 5 stud conversion
(Updated: 08/12/2007)


Q: Where do I get the SVA form?
(Updated: 17/09/2007)


Q: SVA Tips & Common Sportster Issues
(Updated: 31/08/2007)


Q: BMW Donor Information
(Updated: 15/08/2007)


Q: Wobbly Bumper Fix
(Updated: 24/07/2007)


Q: Short Shift / Shifting Parts Refrub
(Updated: 18/06/2007)


Q: What can I do to tune my M20?
(Updated: 18/06/2007)


Q: That's not part of the kit/won't fit?
(Updated: 25/05/2007)


Q: My brake pedal only works 1/2 way down!
(Updated: 18/02/2007)


Q: Setting the Speedo
(Updated: 29/01/2007)


Q: Rear Top Mounts
(Updated: 11/01/2007)


Q: Donor Electric Heater Water Switch
(Updated: 11/01/2007)


Q: Wires! Should I used the original wiring
(Updated: 11/01/2007)


Q: Finding BMW part numbers
(Updated: 11/01/2007)


Q: What is the M20B25's max bhp at rpm
(Updated: 11/01/2007)


Q: LSD
(Updated: 11/01/2007)


Q: Sports Box
(Updated: 11/01/2007)


Q: BSP / UNF / NTP errr (Oil / Water sensors)
(Updated: 11/01/2007)


Question:

Geometry toe fine tuning

Answer:

Here's a quick guide on setting up your toe after a rough guestimate when assembling the front end.

Starting point: 1.25 degrees negative camber (measured with a camber gauge, i.e. bit of string on a board with a scale on it), castor set 3 washers on the front and 4 on the back (make sure the top wishbone is the right way up or it will never work right )

Symptoms - car does not auto centre going forwards, but it does backwards. Problem is too much toe in. Marlin recommend  the wheels be parallel  - not sure if they are wihout measuring equipment, but it feels good to drive after this procedure.

1) Mark on the track rod a line so you know where the top is.
2) Unbolt and turn the track rod by 1 turn so it move out from the track rod end - this moves the wheels outwards at the front. Do up the nut that locks it in place.
3) Take it for a quick drive forwards and back and see how it feels. Ours felt a bit more neutral going back ward but still no auto centre.
4) Repeat if needed, we did with a 1/2 turn, do up the nut that locks it in place. Now backwards wasn't auto centring much at all and forwards was doing it a bit, but not quite enough.
5) Repeat if need, we did an extra 1/4 turn, do up the nut that locks it in place. Now the auto centring forwards was very good. Still slightly loose around the middle but 1/4 turn and it runs nicely back into line.

This has a made a huge difference to the handling feel. It feels nimbler into the bends and is easier to steer you also relax a bit and use less concentration for the steering.

I've also moved my seat a notch forwards which is less relaxed but gives me better control.